Posts Tagged architecture

I’m baaaaaaack!

Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water, your not-so-faithful blogger has shown up again. I went to work for the Census April 23, while I was still in school. Between sub days and enumerating, May was very busy. I was sent to Dodge City in June, then came home to work on the Ultimate Guide to Northwest Kansas for the Northwest Kansas Travel Council. (A link on the right side of that page enables you to request one. An online version should be available, but I don’t have that information yet.)

I worked frantically on that publication until the Census called me back July 8, finishing as much as I could before my work time would be in snatches. Between the Census and Ultimate Guide, I have had almost no time to do anything. Every project I had in mind for this summer has been postponed until who knows when.

Donna and I went to Denver Monday and Tuesday to pick up the Ultimate Guide. I’ve been designing the publication since 2001 and Publication Printers was the most pleasant printer we have worked with. The turnaround was phenomenal, as were the quality and service. Their color work was terrific.

I finished the latest Census operation Thursday, but I could still be called back to work. When I went through training for the first operation, we were told we’d absolutely be finished July 31. I must have done something right because it’s nearly September. I wish I could have told you Census stories, as I have plenty. But I am bound by confidentiality laws. Better to be safe and silent than risk sharing too much information!

Downtown Denver and the Front Range

When we went to Denver, Donna got a great rate for us at the Grand Hyatt in Denver. What a lovely place! My room was on the 22nd floor and we went to the Grand Club, which I believe was on the 29th floor, the highest floor I’ve been on since leaving New York City in January.

tourist on Top of the Rock

I couldn’t help making the comparison between standing on Top of the Rock, 70 stories up.

daytime traffic in Downtown Denver

Traffic is a lot closer from 26 floors up than it is from 70.

Fifth Avenue traffic at rush hour

The stream of vehicles down Fifth Avenue was a constant parade of congestion. No wonder the guide book said “DON’T DRIVE IN MANHATTAN!”

Yes, Denver has its traffic nightmares. I’ve parked on I-70 before. But the guide books don’t tell you not to drive in the Mile High City.

Hubby’s cousin married a man from Long Island, N.Y. When they lived in Denver, his mother visited them. When she saw the Denver skyline, she said, “What a cute little city!”

Cute little city?

Depends what your comparison is. SkyscraperPage.com has three pages — 77 buildings — of Denver skyscrapers. Republic Plaza is the tallest at 56 floors.

According to Skyscraper Page, New York City has 770 buildings — 31 pages — that qualify as skyscrapers. The tallest is the Empire State Building at 102 floors. One World Trade Center is supposed to be 105 floors. SkyscraperPage lists 43 NYC buildings taller than Republic Plaza.

By NYC standards, yes, Denver is a cute little city, but I like it. Denver is comfortable. New York City is overwhelming. Fun, yes, but still overwhelming.

Even so, I’d jump at any chance to return to NYC. I like fresh air, but Times Square is good, too.

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A spot of tea, anyone?

Old South Church interior

This is the interior of Old South Meeting House, built in 1729. It’s most famous for its connection to the Boston Tea Party. Visitors are even handed a tea bag when they visit.

Those opposed to the British tax on tea held a meeting in Old South to discuss what their response should be. Samuel Adams, a prime mover and shaker in the revolutionary movement, stood up and announced, “Gentlemen, this meeting can do nothing more to save the country.” This was supposedly a signal to the Massachusetts Sons of Liberty to destroy the tea.

The Boston Tea Party was on and 342 tea crates bobbed in Boston Harbor. The partiers ensured that all the tea was thoroughly soaked and ruined.

When the British occupied Boston, they wreaked revenge on Old South, turning it into a horse riding arena. They gutted the building and used its furnishings for fuel. When the Redcoats left, the congregation spent eight years raising funds and restoring the interior.

Old South pulpit

The original congregants liked long sermons. In an age without mechanical amplification, the speaker needed all the help he could get. The height of the podium ensured that sound would fall upon the ears of the listeners and the sounding board above him reflected sound downward. Much to my amusement, I thought it looked like some giant threat. “Say something we don’t like and we’ll crush you with this stamp above you!”

This is ironic considering the meeting house’s history subsequent to its preservation as a museum in the 1870s. Old South became a place where anything could be discussed. In 1929, the meeting house’s board voted that any subject, no matter its unpopularity, could be discussed.

I wonder what the original congregants would have thought of that?

To visit Old South from the Boston Common Visitor Center (start of the Freedom Trail, the red line marked on the sidewalk), walk along Tremont Street (with Visitor Center and Boston Common behind you) to the corner of Tremont and School Streets. Turn right, walk down School Street to Washington Street and turn right again, walk down Washington Street. The Old South Meeting House is on the corner of Washington and Milk Streets. The closest subway stops are State Street (Blue/Orange Lines), Government Center (Green Line) and Downtown Crossing (Red Line). It’s open daily all year, except Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve Day, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. Hours are 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. April 1-Oct. 31; 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Nov. 1-March 31.
Here’s the Freedom Trail slide show:

Click on the link in the gallery to order.

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Our House is a very, very, very fine House

Massachusetts House of Representatives

This is the Massachusetts State House‘s House Chamber. Note the Massachusetts House of Representative’s voting boards on the left and on the right.

House Democrats

Here are the Democrats. Leadership is on top, then the members follow in alphabetical order.

House Democrats, Independent and Republicans

Democrats continue on the other side. Rep. Jones, the one with the dashes before and after his name, is the lone Independent. The remaining names are Republicans. Massachusetts is definitely a blue state, which makes the election of Sen. Scott Brown a shock. The election happened only a few days before we arrived. I was hoping to score a Scott Brown sign, but the only election evidence I saw was a Martha Coakley headquarters storefront.

Albert Herter painted the five murals high on the wall, Milestones on the Road to Freedom. The leftmost one (not shown), the painting of John Winthrop leading the Pilgrims to their landing on Plymouth Rock, has been water damaged and was removed for preservation and restoration.

The room is paneled with lustrous Honduran mahogany.

House ormolu clock

At the back of the room is an ormolu clock. Ormolu clocks are also known as “Death Clocks” because the process used to make ormolu poisoned the clockmaker.

The Sacred Cod

The Sacred Cod is the State House’s most famous item. The cod fishery was early Massachusetts’ most significant form of income. A representation of a cod has hung in Massachusetts state houses since the early 1700s. One was lost in a 1747 fire and its replacement disappeared during the British occupation of Boston. The current one, a five-foot fish carved from a single block of pine, was donated in 1798. It hung unmolested until 1933, when the staff of Harvard Lampoon stole it by clipping its supporting wires. An anonymous tip led to its whereabouts. It was rehung much higher, out of the way of someone’s clippers.

Holy Mackerel

The Senate has its own fish, the Holy Mackerel, worked into its chandelier. The dome has 360 pieces of carved wood around it, one for each degree of a circle.

Massachusetts Senate Chamber

The Senate’s documents are tied with red ribbon. British legal documents have been tied with red ribbon since the 17th century. Massachusetts Senate only continued the practice. There’s the origin of the phrase “red tape”.

Senate Reading Room

The Senate’s original chamber is now its Reception Room. The carpet is a replica of an earlier carpet. The tour guide went out of her way to ensure we knew the cross pattern in the carpet had “no religious significance.” What a commentary on our culture! The ceiling is a barrel vault decorated with beautiful plasterwork.

The tour ended here and I had no more time to explore. The rest of the Freedom Trail awaited me.

Directions to State House and tour instructions are here. State House Tours are offered Monday through Friday between 10 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. Tours last approximately 45 minutes. They are free of charge but reservations are requested. Call 617-727-3676. State house is closed on weekends and holidays.

Here’s the State House slide show:

Click on the link in the gallery to order.

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Stately

Memorial Hall dome, arch and John Eliot painting

Memorial Hall was built in the Massachusetts State House to honor those who fought in the Civil War. Henry Walker’s mural above is on the south wall and depicts Puritan minister John Eliot preaching to the Indians. Eliot published the first Bible printed in America after developing an alphabet for the Algonquin Indians. Would this piece of American history be memorialized today in a public space?

Tour guide and tour group in Memorial Hall

The mural above our tour guide, The Return of the Colors was painted by Edward Simmons. It depicts Massachusetts regiments returning their flags to the State House after the Civil War Dec. 22, 1865, in honor of Forefathers’ Day.

(Forefathers’ Day commemorates the Mayflower’s landing at Plymouth Rock. Forefathers’ Day is actually celebrated on two different days because of confusion between the Julian and Gregorian calendars. The correct calendar correction puts the day on Dec. 21, not Dec. 22.)

The flags have been formally returned after every conflict thereafter, although the last time was after the Vietnam War.

The hall has two more murals, Walker’s portrayal of the Pilgrims sighting land from the Mayflower and Simmons’ representation of the Battle of Concord.

Domed skylight with Great Seals

The hall is topped by this skylight featuring the Great Seal of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts in the center with the Great Seals of the other Thirteen Colonies surrounding it.

The floors and pillars are beautiful Siena marble.

reception in Nurses Hall

The next stop on the tour would normally have been Nurses Hall, but someone was holding a reception there. Therefore, I missed the sculpture honoring Civil War nurses and Robert Reid’s murals of the events that launched the American Revolution.

ugly chairs and the Grand Staircase

This room is at the base of the Grand Staircase. After its handrails were cast, the mold was broken to ensure they remained unique. Everything else in the room is beautiful also, except for these chairs with the nasty stenciling on the backs. The contrast between the beautiful architectural details and these disfigured chairs is quite stark.

This is the Grand Staircase. Lectern at the base displays current Massachusetts Great Seal.

Original Great Seal of Massachusetts

This is the original Great Seal, obviously drawn up by some herald in London with no knowledge of climate in New England. Toplessness doesn’t work in New England winters.

center panel of State Seal Window

Much later, the state redesigned the seal to depict a much more realistic Native American, complete with appropriate clothing.

left panel of Great Seal Window

right panel, Great Seal Window

These are the family coats of arms of the Governors of the Province of Massachusetts. Thomas Gage, the last British Governor of Massachusetts, does not have his coat of arms on the window. Just over a year after Gage was installed as governor, the angry General Court, Massachusetts’ Legislature, no longer recognized his authority and decided to devise a new seal.

The center seal was their choice. The soldier carries an upraised sword to signify a nation at war. He clutches the Magna Carta to symbolize his violated rights as an English subject, which later became his rights as an American citizen.

coffered ceiling

coffered ceiling

This gorgeous coffered ceiling is above the next floor.

coffered ceiling and murals

The walls in this room are covered with beautiful murals by Edward Brodney. One is titled Columbia Knighting her World War Disabled and another titled World War Mothers. These are unusual in two respects: 1) Brodney could not afford to pay models, so he used his family and friends as the subjects; 2) women were not usually depicted in military scenes.

Massachusetts has no Governor’s Mansion and the State House lacked any space for large public gatherings. So the state converted a breezeway into a Great Hall by covering it with a glass skylight. However, the acoustics were awful. All those hard surfaces echoed dreadfully. In order to muffle the echoes, they invited each incorporated Massachusetts community to submit their flag. One problem: Many of the towns had no flag. Some had never designed one and some had never had one made. They were supposed to hang in order of incorporation, but some of the earliest towns were flagless ones. When all the communities submit a flag, they will at last be hung in order.

Directions to State House and tour instructions are here. State House Tours are offered Monday through Friday between 10 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. Tours last approximately 45 minutes. They are free of charge but reservations are requested. Call 617-727-3676. State house is closed on weekends and holidays.

Here’s the State House slide show:

Click on the link in the gallery or go here to order.

Next up, the Massachusetts House and Senate Chambers.

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Under the golden dome

I walked the Freedom Trail on our second day in Boston.

Massachusetts State House from Boston Common

As soon as I exited the T’s station under Boston Common, I was drawn to this golden dome and Charles Bulfinch’s beautiful Federal style architecture. Massachusetts State House’s dome is covered with gold leaf, which was added in 1874. Gold is 23.5 carats, which seems an oddly-precise number. It has remained gold ever since, with one exception. The dome was painted gray during World War II to prevent enemy ships from using its gleam as a target.

Our tour guide commented how relieved the citizens were when their gold dome appeared again.

Distances to Boston are measured from the dome, not the city limits or central post office.

Massachusetts State House from Beacon Street

Tour guide said that the center entrance is only open on very special occasions:

1) When the outgoing governor departs;

2) When Massachusetts regiments return from war, they return their battle standards to the State House;

3) When a sitting President visits the State House while the legislature, called the General Court, is in session.

corner of Massachusetts State House

Ordinary mortals must use side entrances. This one is called the Hooker Entrance.

General Hooker's statue from behind

No, ladies of the evening are not plying their trade outside, although a connection does exist. Gen. Joseph Hooker, whose equestrian statue stands outside this entrance, was the third commander of the often ill-fated Army of the Potomac. Hooker’s headquarters were so wild that they were characterized as a combination “bar room and brothel“. “Hooker” was already slang for a prostitute before the Civil War. But, because of Hooker’s drinking and womanizing, Washington’s red-light district became known as “Hooker’s Division.” This increased the slang term’s popularity.

With his history, perhaps the hind-end view of Hooker from the State House is rather appropriate.

Tours originate in the Doric Hall. This is the only place that is not always handicap accessible. A chair lift is present, but often breaks down.

Doric capital in Doric Hall

The room is named for these Doric capitals.

Gov. John Andrew

The room has several statues in it, including ones of Lincoln, Washington, and Gov. John Albion Andrew, the state executive during the Civil War. Andrew sent the Massachusetts State Militia to defend Washington, D.C., in the early days of the Civil War.

bust Lincoln above Gettysburg Address plaque

Abraham Lincoln, the President whose capitol Andrew had rushed to protect, is represented in this bust above a tablet with the words of the Gettysburg Address.

closeup of George Washington's bust

George Washington is honored twice, once with a full-length statue and once with this bust.

Washington statue by Sir Francis Chantrey

This statue received mixed reviews. Washington’s pose in the clothes he actually would have worn is obscured by a Roman toga draped around him. This was called “absurdly incongruous” by at least one source. I have to agree: The combination looks ridiculous.

Massachusetts was pleased enough with Chantrey’s efforts to add a “Washington Temple”, for the sculpture onto their State House. Room is the current Doric Hall. No wonder it didn’t seem to match the rest of the building.

Next up, the rest of the State House.

Directions to State House and tour instructions are here. State House Tours are offered Monday through Friday between 10 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. Tours last approximately 45 minutes. They are free of charge but reservations are requested. Call 617-727-3676. State house is closed on weekends and holidays.

Here’s the State House slide show:

Click on the link in the gallery or go here to order.

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I.M. Pei’s pavilion

I had a list of the top four places I wanted to visit in Boston:

1) John F. Kennedy Library and Museum

2) Adams National Historic Park

3) Freedom Trail

4) Isabelle Stewart Gardner Museum

The Adams’ houses are closed during the winter, so I crossed that attraction off my list. Seeing only the visitors center left me cold. If the houses had been open, I would have seen Presidential sites for the first six Presidents. But this was not to be.

On our first day in Massachusetts, I headed for JFK’s Library. Since the library has free parking, I drove there, then hopped the transit system, or “T”, to Boston Common, where I picked up my Go Boston card at the welcome center. It was good at every attraction I desired to visit. Instead of standing in line to pay, I showed attraction staff my card and went right in. I hopped back on the T and returned to the library, which is now the furthest east I’ve ever been.

JFK Library and Museum building from its pier

When Jackie Kennedy was choosing a design for her late husband’s library, she chose I.M. Pei, then an unknown, as the architect. The tour starts with a showing of a film about JFK’s life, after which visitors are supposed to go downstairs to the museum exhibits, then end in the memorial pavilion. Somehow, I often don’t do things like other people do.

tour group in the pavilion

I must have exited a different door than the one leading to the exhibits because I ended up in the pavilion. Its only furnishings are some low benches. At 115 feet high, it dwarfs all humans entering. If the pavilion is intended to make visitors feel the weight of history and the brevity of life, it succeeds.

pavilion flag and ceiling

The flag, the room’s only decoration, is 45 feet by 26 feet. The space defines stark.

view of Atlantic Ocean from JFK Library's pavilion

The ocean only a few feet away saves the pavilion from unrelieved severity.

Boston skyline from JFK Library pavilion

JFK’s love of the ocean and of sailing was well known. Among other reasons, he said he loved it because of its changeability. The day I was there, the ocean and sky were nearly the same leaden color. The next day, the ocean was brilliant blue, although the skies continued to be overcast.

I could get addicted to seaside views.

For information on visiting JFK’s Library, go here.

This is my slide show from JFK Library:

Click on the link in the gallery or go directly to gallery here.

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Inside Holy Cross Church

View down the nave toward the apse

View down the nave toward the apse

This is the view that awaits those who push on the door that ended the post before this, about Holy Cross Catholic Church, Pfeifer, Kansas.

Balcony view

Balcony view

The church was built during World War I. Stained glass windows were impossible to find, so the original windows were frosted glass. Interior was left unpainted. This state of affairs continued until 1962. The parish priest at that time, ironically named Sinner, was determined to decorate the church.

Windows viewed from the vestible arch

Windows viewed from the vestibule arch

The paint brings out the wonderful “bones” of the church and the stained glass windows are its glory.

Window depicting Creation and Noah’s Ark

Window depicting Creation and Noah

In the days of near-total illiteracy, stained glass windows told the story of the Bible. Even now, the beautiful glass tells the story in ways preaching cannot.

Altar and fence

Altar and choir screen

The choir screen is beautifully carved.

harvest

The screen’s gates are also beautifully carved. This detail is of harvest. Another tells the story of the Five Loaves and Two Fishes.

Tabernacle

Tabernacle

I hope I didn’t commit some massive sacrilegious act by moving the candle that stood in front of the tabernacle. I could not photograph the gorgeous details here without moving it. I presume the metal is bronze. Once I took its picture, I immediately replaced the candle.

Priest holding a rosary

Priest holding a rosary

I am not a Catholic, so this priest’s identity is unknown to me. Altar piece details were exceedingly difficult to photograph. The gingerbread — if that’s the correct word for altar decorations — blocked my efforts to photograph the crucifix. I brought a step stool, but I needed a ladder. The hand-carved figures were acquired from Munich, Germany, in 1922.

Pieta

Pieta

The Pieta in the transept caught my attention. I’ve seen better Pieta sculptures, but this one better captures some of the extreme grief she must have felt. Jesus’ body is always sanitized in these depictions, but we probably could not bear to look upon a true depiction of His broken body.

Church and crops in stained window

Church and crops in stained window

Not all the decorations are strictly ecclesiastical. This transept window shows the church and its parishioners’ livelihood. I doubt Kansans were growing crops of sunflowers when this window was installed, so the sunflower is almost certainly a symbol of the state.

Trifoil window

Trifoil window

I’ve learned some new vocabulary as I’ve been blogging about this church and I have to show it off here. This window above one of the doors leading into the transepts is topped by a trifoil window.

The church was stifling and we had to leave before the heat overcame us. A pity, too, because I was not finished photographing it. I intend to return.

Holy Cross Church slide show is below.

To order from this slide show, click on the slide show’s gallery link or go here.

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