Posts Tagged freedom trail

A spot of tea, anyone?

Old South Church interior

This is the interior of Old South Meeting House, built in 1729. It’s most famous for its connection to the Boston Tea Party. Visitors are even handed a tea bag when they visit.

Those opposed to the British tax on tea held a meeting in Old South to discuss what their response should be. Samuel Adams, a prime mover and shaker in the revolutionary movement, stood up and announced, “Gentlemen, this meeting can do nothing more to save the country.” This was supposedly a signal to the Massachusetts Sons of Liberty to destroy the tea.

The Boston Tea Party was on and 342 tea crates bobbed in Boston Harbor. The partiers ensured that all the tea was thoroughly soaked and ruined.

When the British occupied Boston, they wreaked revenge on Old South, turning it into a horse riding arena. They gutted the building and used its furnishings for fuel. When the Redcoats left, the congregation spent eight years raising funds and restoring the interior.

Old South pulpit

The original congregants liked long sermons. In an age without mechanical amplification, the speaker needed all the help he could get. The height of the podium ensured that sound would fall upon the ears of the listeners and the sounding board above him reflected sound downward. Much to my amusement, I thought it looked like some giant threat. “Say something we don’t like and we’ll crush you with this stamp above you!”

This is ironic considering the meeting house’s history subsequent to its preservation as a museum in the 1870s. Old South became a place where anything could be discussed. In 1929, the meeting house’s board voted that any subject, no matter its unpopularity, could be discussed.

I wonder what the original congregants would have thought of that?

To visit Old South from the Boston Common Visitor Center (start of the Freedom Trail, the red line marked on the sidewalk), walk along Tremont Street (with Visitor Center and Boston Common behind you) to the corner of Tremont and School Streets. Turn right, walk down School Street to Washington Street and turn right again, walk down Washington Street. The Old South Meeting House is on the corner of Washington and Milk Streets. The closest subway stops are State Street (Blue/Orange Lines), Government Center (Green Line) and Downtown Crossing (Red Line). It’s open daily all year, except Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve Day, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. Hours are 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. April 1-Oct. 31; 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Nov. 1-March 31.
Here’s the Freedom Trail slide show:

Click on the link in the gallery to order.

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Stately

Memorial Hall dome, arch and John Eliot painting

Memorial Hall was built in the Massachusetts State House to honor those who fought in the Civil War. Henry Walker’s mural above is on the south wall and depicts Puritan minister John Eliot preaching to the Indians. Eliot published the first Bible printed in America after developing an alphabet for the Algonquin Indians. Would this piece of American history be memorialized today in a public space?

Tour guide and tour group in Memorial Hall

The mural above our tour guide, The Return of the Colors was painted by Edward Simmons. It depicts Massachusetts regiments returning their flags to the State House after the Civil War Dec. 22, 1865, in honor of Forefathers’ Day.

(Forefathers’ Day commemorates the Mayflower’s landing at Plymouth Rock. Forefathers’ Day is actually celebrated on two different days because of confusion between the Julian and Gregorian calendars. The correct calendar correction puts the day on Dec. 21, not Dec. 22.)

The flags have been formally returned after every conflict thereafter, although the last time was after the Vietnam War.

The hall has two more murals, Walker’s portrayal of the Pilgrims sighting land from the Mayflower and Simmons’ representation of the Battle of Concord.

Domed skylight with Great Seals

The hall is topped by this skylight featuring the Great Seal of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts in the center with the Great Seals of the other Thirteen Colonies surrounding it.

The floors and pillars are beautiful Siena marble.

reception in Nurses Hall

The next stop on the tour would normally have been Nurses Hall, but someone was holding a reception there. Therefore, I missed the sculpture honoring Civil War nurses and Robert Reid’s murals of the events that launched the American Revolution.

ugly chairs and the Grand Staircase

This room is at the base of the Grand Staircase. After its handrails were cast, the mold was broken to ensure they remained unique. Everything else in the room is beautiful also, except for these chairs with the nasty stenciling on the backs. The contrast between the beautiful architectural details and these disfigured chairs is quite stark.

This is the Grand Staircase. Lectern at the base displays current Massachusetts Great Seal.

Original Great Seal of Massachusetts

This is the original Great Seal, obviously drawn up by some herald in London with no knowledge of climate in New England. Toplessness doesn’t work in New England winters.

center panel of State Seal Window

Much later, the state redesigned the seal to depict a much more realistic Native American, complete with appropriate clothing.

left panel of Great Seal Window

right panel, Great Seal Window

These are the family coats of arms of the Governors of the Province of Massachusetts. Thomas Gage, the last British Governor of Massachusetts, does not have his coat of arms on the window. Just over a year after Gage was installed as governor, the angry General Court, Massachusetts’ Legislature, no longer recognized his authority and decided to devise a new seal.

The center seal was their choice. The soldier carries an upraised sword to signify a nation at war. He clutches the Magna Carta to symbolize his violated rights as an English subject, which later became his rights as an American citizen.

coffered ceiling

coffered ceiling

This gorgeous coffered ceiling is above the next floor.

coffered ceiling and murals

The walls in this room are covered with beautiful murals by Edward Brodney. One is titled Columbia Knighting her World War Disabled and another titled World War Mothers. These are unusual in two respects: 1) Brodney could not afford to pay models, so he used his family and friends as the subjects; 2) women were not usually depicted in military scenes.

Massachusetts has no Governor’s Mansion and the State House lacked any space for large public gatherings. So the state converted a breezeway into a Great Hall by covering it with a glass skylight. However, the acoustics were awful. All those hard surfaces echoed dreadfully. In order to muffle the echoes, they invited each incorporated Massachusetts community to submit their flag. One problem: Many of the towns had no flag. Some had never designed one and some had never had one made. They were supposed to hang in order of incorporation, but some of the earliest towns were flagless ones. When all the communities submit a flag, they will at last be hung in order.

Directions to State House and tour instructions are here. State House Tours are offered Monday through Friday between 10 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. Tours last approximately 45 minutes. They are free of charge but reservations are requested. Call 617-727-3676. State house is closed on weekends and holidays.

Here’s the State House slide show:

Click on the link in the gallery or go here to order.

Next up, the Massachusetts House and Senate Chambers.

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Under the golden dome

I walked the Freedom Trail on our second day in Boston.

Massachusetts State House from Boston Common

As soon as I exited the T’s station under Boston Common, I was drawn to this golden dome and Charles Bulfinch’s beautiful Federal style architecture. Massachusetts State House’s dome is covered with gold leaf, which was added in 1874. Gold is 23.5 carats, which seems an oddly-precise number. It has remained gold ever since, with one exception. The dome was painted gray during World War II to prevent enemy ships from using its gleam as a target.

Our tour guide commented how relieved the citizens were when their gold dome appeared again.

Distances to Boston are measured from the dome, not the city limits or central post office.

Massachusetts State House from Beacon Street

Tour guide said that the center entrance is only open on very special occasions:

1) When the outgoing governor departs;

2) When Massachusetts regiments return from war, they return their battle standards to the State House;

3) When a sitting President visits the State House while the legislature, called the General Court, is in session.

corner of Massachusetts State House

Ordinary mortals must use side entrances. This one is called the Hooker Entrance.

General Hooker's statue from behind

No, ladies of the evening are not plying their trade outside, although a connection does exist. Gen. Joseph Hooker, whose equestrian statue stands outside this entrance, was the third commander of the often ill-fated Army of the Potomac. Hooker’s headquarters were so wild that they were characterized as a combination “bar room and brothel“. “Hooker” was already slang for a prostitute before the Civil War. But, because of Hooker’s drinking and womanizing, Washington’s red-light district became known as “Hooker’s Division.” This increased the slang term’s popularity.

With his history, perhaps the hind-end view of Hooker from the State House is rather appropriate.

Tours originate in the Doric Hall. This is the only place that is not always handicap accessible. A chair lift is present, but often breaks down.

Doric capital in Doric Hall

The room is named for these Doric capitals.

Gov. John Andrew

The room has several statues in it, including ones of Lincoln, Washington, and Gov. John Albion Andrew, the state executive during the Civil War. Andrew sent the Massachusetts State Militia to defend Washington, D.C., in the early days of the Civil War.

bust Lincoln above Gettysburg Address plaque

Abraham Lincoln, the President whose capitol Andrew had rushed to protect, is represented in this bust above a tablet with the words of the Gettysburg Address.

closeup of George Washington's bust

George Washington is honored twice, once with a full-length statue and once with this bust.

Washington statue by Sir Francis Chantrey

This statue received mixed reviews. Washington’s pose in the clothes he actually would have worn is obscured by a Roman toga draped around him. This was called “absurdly incongruous” by at least one source. I have to agree: The combination looks ridiculous.

Massachusetts was pleased enough with Chantrey’s efforts to add a “Washington Temple”, for the sculpture onto their State House. Room is the current Doric Hall. No wonder it didn’t seem to match the rest of the building.

Next up, the rest of the State House.

Directions to State House and tour instructions are here. State House Tours are offered Monday through Friday between 10 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. Tours last approximately 45 minutes. They are free of charge but reservations are requested. Call 617-727-3676. State house is closed on weekends and holidays.

Here’s the State House slide show:

Click on the link in the gallery or go here to order.

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I.M. Pei’s pavilion

I had a list of the top four places I wanted to visit in Boston:

1) John F. Kennedy Library and Museum

2) Adams National Historic Park

3) Freedom Trail

4) Isabelle Stewart Gardner Museum

The Adams’ houses are closed during the winter, so I crossed that attraction off my list. Seeing only the visitors center left me cold. If the houses had been open, I would have seen Presidential sites for the first six Presidents. But this was not to be.

On our first day in Massachusetts, I headed for JFK’s Library. Since the library has free parking, I drove there, then hopped the transit system, or “T”, to Boston Common, where I picked up my Go Boston card at the welcome center. It was good at every attraction I desired to visit. Instead of standing in line to pay, I showed attraction staff my card and went right in. I hopped back on the T and returned to the library, which is now the furthest east I’ve ever been.

JFK Library and Museum building from its pier

When Jackie Kennedy was choosing a design for her late husband’s library, she chose I.M. Pei, then an unknown, as the architect. The tour starts with a showing of a film about JFK’s life, after which visitors are supposed to go downstairs to the museum exhibits, then end in the memorial pavilion. Somehow, I often don’t do things like other people do.

tour group in the pavilion

I must have exited a different door than the one leading to the exhibits because I ended up in the pavilion. Its only furnishings are some low benches. At 115 feet high, it dwarfs all humans entering. If the pavilion is intended to make visitors feel the weight of history and the brevity of life, it succeeds.

pavilion flag and ceiling

The flag, the room’s only decoration, is 45 feet by 26 feet. The space defines stark.

view of Atlantic Ocean from JFK Library's pavilion

The ocean only a few feet away saves the pavilion from unrelieved severity.

Boston skyline from JFK Library pavilion

JFK’s love of the ocean and of sailing was well known. Among other reasons, he said he loved it because of its changeability. The day I was there, the ocean and sky were nearly the same leaden color. The next day, the ocean was brilliant blue, although the skies continued to be overcast.

I could get addicted to seaside views.

For information on visiting JFK’s Library, go here.

This is my slide show from JFK Library:

Click on the link in the gallery or go directly to gallery here.

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